Bouldered for the first time at Farley (which is known primarily as a sport crag) last week. Drove to Farley for the first time last week. Had the best climbing day in a long time, even though I didn’t send anything hard. Found my dream project. Chilled with fantastic people. Watched Laura do her first lead climb (without backclipping once), take her first lead fall, and finish the climb after taking her first lead fall. Completely fearless. I don’t even think she knew what a quickdraw was. Super impressive.
Name: Speed of Life
Location: Farley Ledges, MA
FA: Dave Graham
Description: Perfect. Perfect. Perfect. A 40-foot boulder over a 20-foot boulder, onto which you will (probably) fall after climbing through the first 20 feet. I’ve seen videos of this climb but it is not at all the same as seeing it in real life. Completely overwhelming. I sat under the boulder for ten minutes just looking at the line. Even though I could only try the first two moves due to a major lack of pads (we only had three when, realistically, you need at least ten) and spotters, those two moves were two of the best moves I’ve done. Imagine a line with just the right amount of crimps to top it, kind of like real-life campus rungs. And not stupidly sharp crimps, either. No, perfectly-sculpted crimps, which not even the best hold maker would be able to replicate. Planning on going back this Sunday with a crew, pads, and more psyche than ever before! Honestly, this is it. This is THE line. I’ve never seen anything so beautiful in my entire life.