|First crux (photo: MountainProject.com)|
We each climbed on a grand total of three routes: two 5.11 warm-ups and a beautiful 5.13b/c called Deeper Shade of Soul. Which wasn't even on the bucket list, but Tony had left some draws up three years ago, and I was kinda curious. My first go on Deeper was quite bad, especially since I climbed bolt by bolt, unclipping rather than clipping. However, I still managed to do every move in one or two tries. And the funny thing is, despite being terribly sore and having no forearm stamina, the climb did not feel impossible. Actually, it didn't really feel all that difficult, especially imagining the whole thing unfolding under more optimal circumstances. The line itself consisted of an easy opening into a ten-or-so move crux sequence that could be broken down into two V8ish boulder problems. The first involved a big deadpoint to a good right-hand slot. The second was a series of bumps on monos. Incredible flow and movement all the way through, with the exception of the mantle-y third or fourth move.
My second go (by this point I was completely wrecked) I hung three times and managed to do the route in two sections. First section, I made it through the deadpoint to the slot, then pumped out. Second section I climbed through the monos then hung. I then decided I wanted to down-climb and try the second boulder problem from the slot. Next go, very much to my own surprise, I made it through the monos and the third crux, all the way to the anchors. Essentially climbing the route in two sections. No, I did not send it. But there is hope after all.